Much of the rock around Mauritius’ coast is black, volcanic and almost impossible to touch in the middle of the day with all the heat it had absorbed. Exposed to the rain and washed by high tides, the outcrops are rounded but deeply pitted but rarely covered in algal growth. White limpet like shellfish clamp on to the sides, and winkles amble across the wetter portions. The contrast between the black rocks and the white sand could hardly be greater.
As we passed the resorts, the sand became cluttered with their paraphernalia; large palm leaf sunshades, line after line of loungers and small glass tables for your drinks, a volleyball court here, assorted watersport equipment there, and from time to time a beach bar blaring out music. Although the beach is public, these resorts de facto own just by occupying the space with their bric-a-brac.
Then there were the boat ramps – huge concrete slabs descending gently into the water. The main fault with these was that sand would be trapped on one side and prevented from moving onwards around the bay; the longshore drift of schoolboy geography powering the process. On the downdrift side the sand would continue to be moved away but nothing replenished causing holes in the beach, exposed rock and threatening the coastline behind from accelerated erosion.
The distance around the east side of the bay into town was barely a kilometre, but noting down all these features took time. Eventually we met what we expected to call the centre of town, where a rather ugly shopping mall had been constructed by Grand Baie’s main road junction and traffic lights. It was dominated by high class boutiques selling essential items like handbags, silk wraps, Persian carpets and hifis. Beyond this point we had to scramble over the waste pipes of a couple of establishments on the sea front, more boat ramps and then a strip of more formal institutional type buildings. We realised our skewed perception of Grand Baie was wrong – we had been passing through the tourist centre up to now, here was the true town centre, if indeed you could say Grand Baie had one at all. Religious constructions of various types, police station, town council building and some normal shops selling things you might actually need. What was still missing from Grand Baie was anything old. Even the mosque and Catholic church were modern in construction; no earlier than the 1950’s. And indeed that is Grand Baie’s history. Despite one of the most extensive and sheltered bays on the whole island, its shallow and difficult entrance made it unsuitable in sailing ship times, and the small fishing village was just at the end of the huge sugar plantations for most of the last three centuries. As tourism started to develop in the 1950s the village grew both with people who found the area attractive to live in, and for those to service the growing population. The next stretch of the walk revealed just that activity,